Michelin-Starred Ice Cream Shop Ditches Tasting Menu for Takeaway Scoops: Will the Move Affect Its Prestigious Star?

The world boasts over 3,000 restaurants with at least one Michelin star, but only one exclusively dedicated to ice cream can be found – in Taiwan’s city of Taichung. Nestled in an alley beside the tree-lined Calligraphy Greenway boulevard, Minimal stands out with its minimalist gray and dark charcoal facade.

Founded by chef Arvin Wan in 2021, the restaurant gained a coveted spot in the Michelin Guide’s 2024 Taiwan edition. However, just months after earning that star, an intriguing shift took place – the elimination of Minimal’s tasting menu, which was served in a separate dining space, and the transformation into a takeaway-only ice cream shop.

Wan shared with CNN Travel his reasoning behind this decision: “I’ve always desired to sell ice cream exclusively. The tasting menu was a temporary exploration for me to discover the possibilities of iced desserts. I learned much during this process, and it will undoubtedly benefit my future ice cream-making endeavors. However, maintaining the tasting menu would have required significant time and resources that could instead be devoted to perfecting my ice cream.”

Minimal’s 20-seat dining space, located on the second floor, offered a creative seven-course menu focusing on temperature variations in its dishes, such as a -5º Celsius (23º Fahrenheit) shaved ice dessert and a bowl of extremely chilly -196º C (-321º F) ice crystals. The innovative menu undeniably impressed Michelin Guide inspectors, who praised Minimal for “skillfully layering flavors and textures through temperature variations and creative combinations.”

Now that the dining space is no more, Wan is left to wonder whether the inspectors will feel the same way when they reassess Minimal next year for the 2025 Taiwan Michelin Guide. He acknowledges that the added attention has made it challenging to devote time to his true passion – crafting exceptional ice cream.

Wan’s fascination with ice cream dates back to childhood, and he aimed to create something different compared to traditional ice cream shops. Becoming the world’s first Michelin-starred ice cream shop in 2024 has catapulted Minimal into a culinary destination, drawing ice cream enthusiasts from far and wide. Patrons line up patiently every Friday through Monday, often waiting over an hour for their turn, as scoops are sold out around 4 p.m.

“Since gaining a star, the most significant change for us has been the increased business and attention,” says Wan with a mix of pride and concern. “But aside from that, I haven’t altered much. My goal remains simple – to create outstanding ice cream.”

When asked about expanding his operation to alleviate wait times, Wan expressed no immediate plans to do so, given the complexity of his offerings. His unique gelato recipes feature intriguing combinations such as olive oil, oolong tea, and magnolia leaf, requiring a meticulous process to preserve each ingredient’s essence without diluting its flavor.

Every batch of ice cream requires extensive tasting and adjustments due to the complexity of the recipes, making it difficult for Wan and his small team to produce large quantities without compromising quality or work-life balance. “Instead of risking a dip in quality or sacrificing work-life balance, I want to focus on what I can manage effectively,” he says.

Michelin has yet to comment on its judging process regarding Minimal’s recent change. According to the official website, Michelin stars are awarded based on five criteria: the quality of ingredients, the harmony of flavors, mastery of techniques, chef personality expressed through their cuisine, and consistency across the menu and over time.

Restaurants do not necessarily need a tasting menu to receive a star, but Minimal’s no-seating policy may raise questions about its future evaluation. “I estimate that around 70% of our star was awarded due to our tasting menu,” says Wan. “But they did express praise for our ice cream as well. If we lose the star because of this change, it’ll be what it is meant to be. If we retain a star solely as an ice cream shop, then it will mean even more to me.”

Wan is not the first chef to make an unconventional move after receiving recognition from the industry’s most prestigious gourmet guide. The culinary world continues to be captivated by such events, as depicted in the TV show “The Bear,” which offers a semi-realistic portrayal of the challenges faced by chefs aiming for Michelin stars.

“The obsession with Michelin stars extends beyond the guide to other accolades like ‘World’s 50 Best’,” remarks Agnes Chee, an international food critic based in Hong Kong. “While it’s understandable for chefs and restaurants to pursue recognition – both for personal achievement and business success – the problem arises when some chefs become overly reliant on these rankings.”

A star from the Michelin Guide serves as a significant milestone and often brings lucrative opportunities, but maintaining the standard can come with considerable stress. Chef Michel Roux Jr. shocked everyone by closing his two-star Michelin restaurant, Le Gavroche, in London in 2024 to “prioritize work-life balance.”

Meanwhile, the owners of the now-closed Michelin-starred fine-dining restaurant Deanes EIPIC in Belfast, Northern Ireland, cited financial instability as their reason for closure. Some restaurateurs have even taken legal action against the guide, such as chef Marc Veyrat, who banned Michelin inspectors from visiting his new venture Le Restaurant after a negative review of his soufflé earlier this year.

In Wan’s case, he continues to hold respect for the Michelin Guide but emphasizes that it should not dictate his happiness. His aim has always been straightforward – to create exceptional ice cream: “In today’s age of overwhelming information, I believe awards like the Michelin Guide provide an objective and authoritative voice to help clear the fog. However, it can be tempting for chefs to guess what the guide wants or follow a path they believe might earn them a star. You may lose your way as a result. I find it even more alarming to lose oneself than to lose a star.”

These days, Wan is content, selling around 300 cups of ice cream daily. For this passionate ice cream perfectionist, each scoop must be executed with the right technique and patience, ensuring an extra smooth texture that melts slowly. “Fragrances and flavors are released more as temperature rises,” says Wan. “I want my ice cream to melt two seconds after it’s placed in your mouth, rather than one second. It simply tastes better.”

Food critic Chee applauds Wan’s decision to prioritize his true passion – the ice cream: “Minimal’s choice may initially seem unwise, but it actually reflects a very grounded mindset. The owner understands that regardless of any star ratings, their true professionalism lies in creating exceptional ice cream. Customer satisfaction ultimately matters more than award recognition.”

And when it comes down to it, Chee agrees – Minimal truly is special: “Having their ice cream is like having a whole dessert course – so flavorful and delicate.”