Discovering Intact Baptismal Pools of Ancient Christian Church in Negev Desert Unearths History of Change and Transience

In our global journey, NPR’s international team regularly shares personal and professional experiences from various corners of the globe through the weekly series titled “Far-Flung Postcards.”

Recently, I had the privilege to witness remnants of a 1,500-year-old Christian church situated in the Negev desert. This opportunity presented itself during an early morning excavation expedition with a small team of archaeologists nearby.

The Nabataean civilization may be familiar to you, particularly from their legendary city sculpted from sandstone – Petra, Jordan. The cinematic adventure ‘Indiana Jones’ was partially shot there. This ancient culture were not only architectural marvels but also formidable traders, traversing the Arabian and Sinai peninsulas’ deserts to transport various goods, including highly valued frankincense for religious ceremonies. To sustain their lengthy journeys, they constructed caravanserais, cities, and churches like this one along their trade routes.

Alas, most of this long-abandoned oasis city, named Mamshit, has crumbled to its foundations, with the Nabataeans themselves fading as a distinct civilization. However, I was astonished to find that the baptismal pools, despite the Negev’s relentless heat and sand, remained remarkably intact. The smaller pool, archaeologists explained, served for infant baptisms, while the larger, cross-shaped pool catered to adult ceremonies – reflecting the transition to Christianity that the Nabataeans underwent in the 4th century AD.

As the sun began to rise during our excavation, I paused by these pools, captivated by their silent testimony. They symbolized the enduring yet transient nature of human society and history, especially in a region that has been a crossroads for numerous civilizations over countless centuries. It serves as a humbling reminder that while some things persist, they do not remain forever.