Illegal and Endangered: The Persisting Allure of Acitrón in Mexico City Traditions

In Mexico City’s bustling Merced market, an illicit treat known as acitrón is a ubiquitous sight despite its illegal status. Appearing like lemon bars, these candied delicacies are actually segments of the barrel cactus that have been steeped in sugar until crystallized.

Edith Hernández Torres, proprietor of a shop at the market, wraps her acitrón in cellophane and claims it possesses a unique flavor distinct from other candied offerings such as lemon, sweet potato, or pineapple she also sells. She explains its texture is reminiscent of roasted items due to its chewy consistency.

The Mexican government began prohibiting the sale of acitrón in the early 2000s after discovering that the biznaga cactus, a type of barrel cactus, was on the brink of extinction due to excessive harvesting. Hernández acknowledges the illegality of her product but maintains demand from customers justifies its continued sale.

When asked about her feelings towards selling an endangered species, she simply replies, “Our entire planet is going extinct.” As she speaks, María Julia Gutiette picks up a bar of acitrón with care, as if it were gold.

Gutiette shares a significant connection to Mexico, having been born on the same day as the nation – September 16th. Every year, she purchases traditional ingredients like pears, peaches, pink pine nuts, and acitrón to prepare chiles en nogada, a dish consumed from August to early October.

“Traditions are the salt and pepper of life,” Gutiette says tearfully, recalling her childhood when the high cost of these ingredients prevented her from enjoying chiles en nogada. Now financially independent, she wants to treat her family with something special for Mexico’s Independence Day, and acitrón is a necessary ingredient for her cherished recipe.

At the National Autonomous University of Mexico’s botanical garden, barrel cactuses have historical significance, having been present in Mexico long before the introduction of sugar that made them so sweet. The garden houses over 150 species of biznaga, most of which are now on the brink of extinction due to wild harvesting.

Salvador Arias, a biologist who oversees the botanical gardens, points out a golden barrel cactus whose spines resemble a rising sun. This species was almost wiped out when Mexico built a hydroelectric dam, destroying its habitat. Some of these cacti are 40 years old and reach thigh height, while others are only the size of a fist and 8 years old.

Arias explains that the slow metabolism of these cacti makes farming impractical and unprofitable, resulting in their overexploitation from the wild. He remains optimistic, however, believing that cacti have evolved to thrive in diverse environments and can do so again.

In contrast, the chef of Azul restaurant does not use acitrón in his renowned chiles en nogada. Instead, he uses candied chilacayote, a type of squash. Though the taste difference is negligible according to him, he believes it’s essential to preserve barrel cactuses for future generations.

“We humans have the power of adaptation,” he says. To save the barrel cactus, he suggests we should adapt our recipes accordingly.